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Glenmorangie 1993/2005 'Post oak' (58.2%, OB, cask #1947, 296 bottles) (4 starrs)

Another woody experiment by Glenmorangie. Post oak is a small American oak, also called quercus stellata. Colour: gold. Nose: this is much more wham-bam! Rather heavy, like a concentrated version of the Astar. More of everything, I’d say, except complexity. A little coffee-ish and maybe a tad plankish after a moment (pencil shaving). With water: ditto, but with more complexity (herbs, hay, more spices). Mouth (neat): huge, creamy, uber-fruity and very spicy. Hugely demonstrative, with loads of vanilla, ripe yellow plums and assorted spices (Chinese anise, cloves, nutmeg) and a lot of sweet liquorice. With water: it got a tad drier now, and in a rather beautiful way. More roasted nuts, liquorice, orange cake and vanilla cake. Finish: very long, very compact and ‘focused’. Comments: very good and very ‘new world’ in a certain way. Sexy, but maybe more Jennifer Lopez than Elizabeth Hurley. Oh well...

SGP:641 – 87 points.

Old Pulteney 30 yo (44%, OB, 2009) (5 stars)

This one is a brand new bottling by the owners, the oldest official Pulteney ever. It’s ex-American white oak (bourbon). Colour: straw. Nose: it’s the trademark brine and the oak that strike first, in a beautiful fashion, with lots of apples and tangerines in the background. After this very coastal start we get more vanilla and flower nectar as well as touches of quince jelly, warm apple pie and maybe just hints of fresh strawberries and marshmallows before it gets more lemony (lemonade). And we’re finally back on iodine and faint whiffs of crushed fresh mint leaves. Extremely ‘natural’ and very elegant, well in the style of our beloved coastal Northeasterners. Mouth: very good body at the attack, even more on apples than on the nose, with the oak soon to kick in. Ginger and a little cinnamon. Goes on with notes of vanilla crème and café latte, then quite some lemon marmalade and finally a little salt that starts to play with your tongue. Touches of ripe strawberries. The oak grows bigger too (quite some pepper). Finish: long, firm, on an oak + lemon + salt + vanilla fudge combo that works very well. Comments: some whisky lovers may find that the rather obvious oakiness is a tad ‘too much’ but it isn’t my opinion as it gives the whole an excellent structure. In other words, the spirit stands the oak that supports the spirit (or something like that). The whole is very, very ‘natural’. And very recommended!

SGP:451 – 91 points.

Pulteney 26 yo 1982/2009 (47.7%, A.D. Rattray, cask #502, 201 bottles) (5 stars)

This one from a hogshead. Colour: pale gold. Nose: this one is much heavier and kind of rougher than the new OB, with more oak and many more mineral notes. Wet limestone, chalk, ginger, then whiffs of lemonade and sea breeze again, leather, cut grass, leaves, roots… Definitely wilder and less fruity than the OB but well in the OP tradition. With water: water doesn’t change its profile mucho, except for more coastal notes such as seaweed. Also a little coffee and roasted nuts. Mouth (neat): we’re well in the same category as the OB but once again, it’s all rougher and bigger, which may well not be an asset here. Big oak, big white pepper and quite a ‘greenness’. Angelica. Gets frankly prickly (pepper flavoured vodka). With water: oh well, now it IS beautiful. Very nice notes of caramelised apples, roasted honey and green tea. A tad unusual but very likeable. Finish: long, clean, with the coastal side coming out. Vanilla-flavoured clams? (I’m sorry ;-)) Comments: another very good Pulteney that ‘s maybe a tad slow when undiluted but that becomes quite superb with the addition of a few drops of water.

SGP:361 - 88 points.

Pulteney 18 yo 1990/2009 (57.2%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, 217 bottles) (4.5 stars)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: one step further towards ‘wilderness’ but also these hints of strawberries and bubblegum that we already found in the OB. Also more marzipan and cut apples plus a good deal of oak. It’s also the less coastal. Let’s see what happens with water: wow, this is nice! More mint, eucalyptus, even a little camphor, hints of orange blossom water, coconut liqueur (only faint touches, don’t worry). High class, maybe just a tad bourbonny. Mouth (neat): once again, we’re rather closer to the OB than to the 1982, with various fruits encapsulated in quite some oak. Ginger and strawberries, coconut (the oak speaks out), vanilla and white pepper. Funnily drinkable at such high strength. With water: oh well, here’s another excellent Pulteney indeed. Arrak, aniseed, crystallised oranges and always quite some coconut and pepper from the oak. Finish: long, sweet and mildly spicy. Maybe a little less precise now. Comments: a very good Pulteney from a very active cask. The sweetest of them all.

SGP:451 - 88 points.

Lochside 17 yo 1991/2008 ‘Eso Child’ (46%, The Nectar, Daily Dram, 252 bottles) (4 stars)

A late period Lochside, the wonderful distillery having been closed in 1992 and demolished around 2004. Look at the picture below, wasn’t it very ‘Neuschwanstein’? And the malt always quite princely? Colour: pale gold. Nose: as clean, crisp and fruity as Lochside could get, with something a little ‘Lowlands’ as often (Bladnoch, Auchentoshan) plus that extra ‘old Highlands’ kick that’s so trilling. It’s not a big nose actually but we’re getting tangerines, passion fruits, rhubarb, yellow flowers and fresh mint, all encapsulated in a light, refined oakiness (cedar wood). Hints of dried flowers (pot-pourri). A very elegant dram on the nose, kind of aerial but not really light. Mouth: assertive and very, very fruity, with a lot of orange juice and even papayas as well as notes of fresh bananas, the oak growing then bigger (cinnamon). The big fruitiness evolves more towards kiwis after a moment, with unusual vegetal notes (sorrel, rocket salad). Finish: medium long, more on strawberry drops now. And quite some kiwi! Comments: not as much a fruitbomb as earlier vintages but it’s still very fruity whisky with quite a body. We’ll always miss the very ‘unusual’ Lochside.

SGP:641 - 87 points.

Tomatin 43 yo 1965/2009 'Oat Mint' (47.1%, The Nectar, Daily Dram, 210 bottles) (5 stars)

Colour: full gold. Nose: starts fresh and clean, on a typical blend of very fruity notes such as not too ripe bananas and papayas with a very subtle spicy woodiness (cedar wood with a little menthol). Develops more on slightly resinous notes, wax polish, pollen and earl grey tea, the menthol growing rather bigger in the background. Not a wham-bam fruitbomb, rather complex, but as always with these oldies, it’s on the palate that the truth will lie. Mouth: what’s rather striking is this one’s nervousness and freshness, even if the fruitiness is soon to be replaced with a wide assortment of spices from the oak. Cinnamon, nutmeg, even soft chilli, white pepper… Then we’re back on mangos and mint, with even faint notes of strawberries and pear drops, as if the fruits wouldn’t let the rather beautiful oak do all the talking. Finish: rather long, with the kind of oakiness that’s very typical of these whiskies (banana skin) and a tiny wee bit of smokiness. Comments: a very good version where neither the fruits, nor the oak managed to dominate each other.

SGP:551 - 90 points.

Ledaig 31 yo 1973/2004 (54.8%, Chieftains, sherry hogshead #1710, 114 bottles) (4 stars)

Colour: deep amber. Nose: very, very special, almost meaty. Varnish, nail polish, smoke, old books. Lots of tar developing, rubber, burnt tyre. This Ledaig smells like a Port Ellen! The sherry arrives after three or four minutes, accompanied by some bold camphor and eucalyptus. Really stupendous! Goes on with wet bonfire, dill, balsamic vinegar. It’s just endless. Superb! Mouth: incredibly bold, on peat, smoke, ashes, tar, overcooked vegetables (French beans). There’s a great fight sherry vs. peat happening here. Lots of salted liquorice, soy sauce, burnt caramel… A little extreme, but soooo special… You feel like if you just smoked three Partagas Lusitanias in a row after a few minutes. How bold! A stunning Ledaig, easily in the same league as the best Ardbegs, Broras or Taliskers. The finish is endless… Majestic, like Beethoven's

93 points – well earned. Ledaig, you say?!

Laphroaig 11 yo 1998/2009 'Philo Raga' (57.5% The Nectar, Daily Dram) (4.5 stars)

Colour: white wine. Nose: a very peaty, rather lemony and extremely ashy young Laphroaig, with these notes of cut apples beyond the surface. It’s also very medicinal, with whiffs of antiseptic and a little eucalyptus. More and more cold ashes, linseed oil and then hints of ‘nice rancid butter’ if you see what I mean. With water: ashier and grassier (fresh walnuts), and more kippery as well. Just faint hints of pear juice. Sharper and straighter than the young OBs but I haven’t tried the most recent batches of the official 10yo CS – have to do that soon! Mouth (neat): powerful but not aggressive, and rather fruitier than on the nose. Smoked apple liqueur? Kiwis? Some lemon for sure. The ashiness is big and even a tad drying – ever had some cigar ash in your mouth? (by mistake of course). With water: ultra-clean, a tad fruitier, with quite some liquorice, marzipan, white chocolate, lemon, salt… And straight ‘peat’ plus tar in the background. Finish: long, clean and zesty, peaty and smoky. Maybe just a tad drying/ashy. Comments: excellent Laphroaig, flawless, for lovers of this style. Extreme peat.

SGP:259 - 89 points.
 

Port Ellen 26 yo 1982/2009 (Douglas Laing OMC for The Nectar, refill hogshead, 193 bottles) (5 stars)

Colour: gold. Nose: we’re extremely close to the other OMC at first nosing, both whiskies being actually almost identical despite different wood treatments (but it seems that the casks weren’t very active anyway). Maybe a little more citrusy notes (orange zests, lemon) and maybe a slightly bigger ‘coastalness’. More sour fruits too (cider apples, also a little baker’s yeast), the whole getting frankly zestier after ten or fifteen minutes. Great. With water: oh, this one does not swim too well! Gets a little cardboardy… Mouth: once again, we’re close to the other OMC in style but this one is the biggest of them all. Very powerful but creamy, rather rich considering it’s a non-sherry PE, luscious, flavourful… We have a lot of marmalade, pepper spice-mix (that includes paprika and caraway), dried ginger, straight peat, lemon-sprinkled smoked salmon (not kidding) and, well, lemon again. With water: works better than on the nose but it does not add much to the whisky. Maybe a little more salt. Finish: long, clean, zesty, perfectly balanced. Comments: this one was probably the most ‘Port Ellen’ of all four, but water is not obligatory – for once!

SGP:447 - 91 points.

Black Bull 30 yo ‘Deluxe Blend’ (50%, Duncan Taylor, 2009)  (4 stars)
An old brand that’s been revived by Duncan Taylor. This new version is made out of 50% malt and 50% grain, the whole having been vatted at birth and then matured for thirty years in sherry casks. Colour: gold/amber. Nose: we’re much closer to the Cream of Glenlivet than to the Old Parr, although everything is bigger in this new baby, and not only the alcohol. Very pleasant whiffs of precious wood (and maybe thuja), wood varnish, then Seville oranges, a slight meatiness (ham), wet hay… Then we’re back on chocolate and coffee, before some rather sexy notes of dried bananas and coconut come through, reminding me of these old grains that Duncan Taylor issue from time to time (Invergordon 1965, anyone?) More leather and pipe tobacco after a few minutes – a rather beautiful sherry.

Mouth: rich and creamy yet rather dry at very first sips, with notes of brownies and roasted chestnuts. The orange marmalade does kick in after that, as well as some bitter caramel and liquorice. It is not a luscious old blend for the 19th hole, rather a vibrant and nervous fighter that’s much closer to malt whisky than to grain on the palate. Pleasant dryness and an oakiness that’s quite assertive (hints of pine resin). Good stuff! Finish: long and spicier now, with quite some black pepper and cloves, dark chocolate and bitter oranges. Comments: alas, I never tried the old version of Black Bull, but this new one is quite potent and, considering it’s a blend, top shelf material for sure.

SGP:352 - 87 points.

Glendronach 15 yo 'Revival' (46%, OB, 2009) (5 stars)

This one is the brand new version under new owners and Billy Walker’s management. 100% oloroso matured. Colour: amber. Nose: except for the oloroso notes, this new one simply hasn’t much to do with the old 15, but it sort of kept the best parts (balsamico, mushrooms, raisins, parsley). Much cleaner but certainly not monodimensional, beautifully sherried, developing all on walnut liqueur, beef stock, hints of Madeira at some point (rather than straight sherry), soy sauce, mint sauce, a little camphor, maraschino (very obvious after a while), horse stable, coal smoke… Very complex in fact, and pretty brilliant so far. ‘Wow’. Mouth: big, rich, nervous and wonderfully sherried, immediately remind us of some older Macallan 18s (Gran Reservas). Coffee, chocolate, prunes, dates, beef jerky, dried bananas, figs, orange liqueurs… And a very nice rancio in the background. As for spices, we have cloves, cinnamon and just a little star anise. Finish: rather long, with the spices getting bigger and just a faint dustiness. Fades away on blackcurrant jam. Comments: the fact that some distilleries still have such old style sherried whiskies may well be the best of recent news from the whisky world. Adorable whisky.

SGP:462 - 92 points.

Glendronach 18 yo 'Allardice' (46%, OB, 2009) (4 stars)

100% oloroso matured. Allardice was the name of the founder of the distillery in 1826 but some other sources claim that the name was rather Allardes. Well, that shouldn’t change anything to this new baby’s aromas and flavours… Colour: amber. Nose: less aromatic and playful than the new 15, with a sherry that’s kind of subdued and straighter malty/nutty notes. It’s also a tad grassier (walnut skins, apple peelings, cut grass). Picks up steam after a few minutes, with beautiful whiffs of wet earth and just hints of old roses (surprise!). Keeps developing for a long time, more and more on roses and Turkish delights, which was unexpected. Orange blossom water. Mouth: curiously ‘younger’ than the 15, and a tad more on fruit eaux-de-vie (kirsch, raspberry). Maybe the percentage of first fill casks was lower than in the 15 – or maybe not. Very good but less complex. Finish: medium long, on oak-matured raspberry eau-de-vie (or something like that) Comments: once again, a very good whisky but the 15 is in a different league in my view.

SGP:651 - 87 points.

Laphroaig 18 yo (48%, OB, 2009) (4 stars)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: smoother than the HB, much more vanilled (first fill bourbon casks?) but also fruitier and rounder, with some pleasant coastal notes (sea air, iodine.) It’s also rather more medicinal than the HB, with hints of tincture of iodine, bandages and a little camphor. Oh, and whiffs of gentian. It’s still a gentle and rather shy Laphroaig so far, that is, let’s hope the palate will be bigger. (Note: opens up just a bit after… one hour! On more citrons and kumquats.) Mouth: it IS bigger, starting on all things earthy (gentian spirit and liquorice wood – my taste), with quite a saltiness but less than in the HB. Lemon sprinkled oysters, peat, maybe a hint of coriander and even sorrel, and then a rather big oakiness – not plankish of course – that, once again, hints at some kind of new oak treatment, ‘though it’s no vanilla bomb at all. Anyway, it’s good! Faint nuttiness. Finish: long, even more on liquorice wood. Lemon. Comments: this is complicated. I think I liked the nose of the 15yo that this one is meant to replace a little better because of its beautiful fruity notes (if I remember well) and of its subtleness but this is bigger and more assertive on the palate indeed, even if probably a little less complex and more ‘modern’.

SGP:367 - 87 points.

Tomatin 43 yo 1965/2009 'Oat Mint' (47.1%, The Nectar, Daily Dram, 210 bottles) (5 stars)

Colour: full gold. Nose: starts fresh and clean, on a typical blend of very fruity notes such as not too ripe bananas and papayas with a very subtle spicy woodiness (cedar wood with a little menthol). Develops more on slightly resinous notes, wax polish, pollen and earl grey tea, the menthol growing rather bigger in the background. Not a wham-bam fruitbomb, rather complex, but as always with these oldies, it’s on the palate that the truth will lie. Mouth: what’s rather striking is this one’s nervousness and freshness, even if the fruitiness is soon to be replaced with a wide assortment of spices from the oak. Cinnamon, nutmeg, even soft chilli, white pepper… Then we’re back on mangos and mint, with even faint notes of strawberries and pear drops, as if the fruits wouldn’t let the rather beautiful oak do all the talking. Finish: rather long, with the kind of oakiness that’s very typical of these whiskies (banana skin) and a tiny wee bit of smokiness. Comments: a very good version where neither the fruits, nor the oak managed to dominate each other.

SGP:551 - 90 points.

The official claim is that both bottlings of the Supernova came from the same batch, but other malt freaks noticed that the bottling codes were dissimilar (L08 for the ‘Committee’ and L09 for the general release), which means that the general release may have spent at least a few more weeks in one or several vatting tanks. Would that change anything to the whisky? Probably not but let’s see… Besides, whilst it was believed (wrongly it seems) that the first version came from a very small ‘boutique/experimental/secret’ run of uber-peated Ardbeg, a recent press release by the owners claimed this (quote): “For the creation of Ardbeg Supernova, we analysed and tasted a wide range of different Ardbeg whiskies of varying ages.” Perplexed? Anyway, woooof!

First I tried the Ardbeg 'Supernova' (58.9%, OB, advanced Committee release, 2008) while reading my old tasting notes and decided that I wouldn’t change one word to them (S., you lazy B.!) Then I tried the Ardbeg ‘Supernova’ (58.9%, OB, general release, 2009) and found, indeed some very tiny differences on the nose and on the palate, whether when neat or diluted, but the problem is that these tiny wee differences kept changing – first the CR was a tad more lemony, then it was the GR, then the GR was a tad smokier, and then it was the CR… The kind of things that happen anytime you try the same whisky from two different bottles. So, the colours being the same, I decided that only a large panel of tasters tasting both whiskies in a double-blind session could maybe settle this very existential question. As far as I’m concerned, I’d say that these two (excellent) whiskies are most probably the same indeed.

SGP: 269- 89 points.
 

And also Port Askaig 25 yo (45.8%, Specialty Drinks, 2009) (5 stars)
As the excellent bottlers wrote, ‘in a world of change and innovation, there is still a place for the tried and tested approach.’ No doubt about that! In any case, just like the official Talisker 10yo, this new Port Askaig is bottled at Imperial 80 proof, that is to say 45.8% vol. As for the malt inside, well, both the name and the view of the Paps of Jura suggest… Your guess! Colour: pale gold. Nose: a clean and fruity start, with whiffs of liquorice allsorts, dill and celery flight around, then a little cinchona/bitter tonic, the whole getting then more focused on everything from ‘there’, that is to say wood ashes, wet sand (the beach, really), motor oil (and paraffin), a little gentian and other rooty notes. Finally a little fresh marzipan (not cheapo confectionary), infused green tealeaves, and maybe white cherries and overripe apples. More and more coastal on ‘subsequent nosing’. Mouth: rather round and even kind of mellow, reminding me of old versions of Caol Ila in a certain way (pre-1974). Some liquorice, notes of salty oysters, the lemon that goes well along, then quite some nutmeg and a little cinnamon from the oak, plain wood (chewed pencil), maybe a little tapioca (faint dustiness) and finally hints of cherries just like we had on the nose (not too ripe bigaroons). Medium peatiness. Finish: medium to long, with a nice clean ‘smoky/dusty bitterness’, apple peel, and more spices in the aftertaste (pepper and cardamom). Comments: not a peat monster, rather a gentleman of an Islayer, in the league where most flawless 25yo Islayers lie.

SGP:365 - 90 points.
 

Springbank 1992/2009 'Peat-Smoked' (46%, Berry Bros & Rudd, cask #71) (5 stars)

We found this intriguing bottle in Limburg. Peat-smoked Springbank? Was it wash for Longrow that was distilled under Springbank’s 2.5 regime – and not just twice? Or simply Longrow? Something else? We’ll ask the good people at Berry Bros’ and at Springbank’s if they can tell us more about this strange version but in the meantime, let’s try it if you please… Colour: white wine. Nose: indeed! This reminds me of recent Longrows in style but it’s maybe a tad less fat and oily, a little less peaty as well, and rather more medicinal and mineral. Antiseptic, tincture of iodine, embrocations, bitter oranges and discreet whiffs of wild thyme, then more tangerines and even mangos and passion fruits. You know what? This reminds me a bit of the 1973/1974 Longrows… Does that ring a bell? Mouth: what a superb attack! Once again, it’s kind of a slightly lighter Longrow, flinty, ashy, peaty, mineral, salty (big time) and citrusy. Very clean at this point, definitely coastal and, well, beautiful! Fantastic zestiness. Nutmeg. Finish: rather long, maybe just a tad waxy now, with also the same kind of notes of vegetables as in the ‘regular’ Springbank that we just had. Comments: this year’s surprise – so far. Are there many other casks of this very Longrow-esque Springbank???

SGP:256 – 91 points.

Springbank 1993/2009 (46%, Berry Bros & Rudd, cask #195) (4.5 stars)

Colour: straw. Nose: very nice! Starts almost as spicy and assertive as more recent Springbanks can be, with huge notes of cloves and juniper on top of bitter oranges and grapefruits, then a rather big minerality (gunflints, chalk, clay), faint whiffs of coal and wood ashes, and finally that pleasantly dirty farminess that sometimes comes with the package (dusty farmyard after a heavy summer rain- whatever!). I like this nose a lot, even – or maybe because – it’s a little understated. Mouth: as often with the distillery’s recent outputs, the attack is a tad ‘shaky’ and guess what, I like that! Oranges and kumquats, ginger tonic and Campari, warm butter and sour cream, all that at the same time! More and more bitter oranges after that, a faint dustiness (cigar tobacco) and finally something vegetal, between celeriac and salsify. Very, very entertaining whisky, kind of anti-classical if I may say so. Finish: medium long, still on vegetables and bitter oranges. Comments: typical naked (read unfinished) new style Springbank, a malt like no other.

SGP:362 - 88 points.

Caol Ila 12 yo 1995/2008 (60.8%, Blackadder Raw Cask, cask #10017, 591 bottles) (4.5 Stars)

We loved this baby when we first tried it 100% blind at the MM Awards 2008. Colour: white wine. Nose: once again, a very mineral (and ashy) but also very strong and harsh version. Added notes of milk chocolate, unusual but very pleasant. With water: top class nose, one of the flintiest and ashiest I could came across in the last months. Ueberclean. Mouth (neat): a perfect Caol Ila at very high strength, almost drinkable without water (well, one may be able to swallow a few drops). Apple peelings, marine salt and fresh limejuice – this will wake you up, as sure as eggs is eggs. With water: excellent and 100% Caol Ila now. Rather close to the official CS if memory serves. Finish: long, ashy, peaty, vegetal (apple peeling, walnuts), salty and spicy (green curry). Comments: extremely good – as good as it gets at just 12yo. Water is obligatory.

SGP:467 - 89 points.

Ardbeg 1992/2007 (51.6%, Scott's Selection, 'Single Highland Malt') (4.5 Stars)

Whether Islay should be considered as being in the Highlands or not… I don’t know. Probably not. Colour: white wine. Nose: extremely close to the Cadenhead’s in style, only a little more austere and flinty at first nosing, and then a little farmier (cow stable). Once again, there’s a lot of lemon and porridge, and no real peat blast when at cask strength. With water: it’s now that this one really overtakes the Cadenhead and the others, as it gets crisper, cleaner, smokier and simply peatier. Nice farmy notes (wet sheep, hay.) Okay, not a revelation but it’s a nice Ardbeg. Mouth (neat): once again, we’re close to the Cadenhead’s but this one is rather more expressive, sort of better composed, with the holy trinity well in place (peat, lemon, pepper). Good balance despite the relative ‘brutality’. With water: once again, this is flawless and most quaffable at roughly 45% vol. Good stuff, reminding me a bit of the Airigh Nam Beist (I got the name correct, didn’t I!!) Finish: long, clean, with just enough of all worthy Arbbeggian ingredients (no need to list them). Comments: this one is very good. A clear and, to tell you the truth, very easy winner. And no, anything with the name Ardbeg on it isn’t always stellar and worth insulting prices.

SGP:458 - 88 points.

Glenfarclas 30 yo (43%, OB, Bottled +/- 2008) (4.5 Stars)

I’ve always found the ‘30’ to be rather inconsistent, ranging from very high marks (90) to ‘good’ ones (84) depending on the batches. Colour: amber. Nose: it’s got more to say than the 25 for sure, starting on a lot of raisins and notes of cognac, with a little camphor and eucalyptus. Gets then more resinous and raisiny (sultanas) but it does not quite reach the 22yo’s sultriness. Notes of pine needles, lovage (and Maggi!), liquorice allsorts and fresh putty. I must say this is much more to my liking than when I first tried this recent batch. Mouth: what’s rather obvious here is that there’s much more wood and spices than in the 22 and 25, with a rather big ‘tannicity’ (tea, liquorice wood) and then notes of prunes. Just like the 22, it gets then rather salty, with even hints of black olives. That’s fun! Finish: long, going on in the same vein. And always these black olives! Comments: I really missed this one when I first tried it but it grew on me – and I adore black olives!

SGP:451 - 89 points.

Springbank 18 yo (46%, OB, 2009) (5 Stars)

Let’s see if this brand new Springbank is anywhere near the excellent Longrow 18 from last year. It was matured in 80% sherry, the rest being bourbon. Colour: full gold. Nose: what strikes me first is the youthfulness here, as it starts all on notes of blueberry yoghurt and fresh ripe strawberries as well as hints of gamay (Beaujolais nouveau) and muesli. It’s a rather big smokiness that enters the dance after that, with whiffs of lapsang souchong tea, espresso coffee and brown coal (stove) as well as a little putty, fresh walnuts, soaked grains and candle wax. The fresh fruits/’wet’ smoke combination works very well in our view. Oh, and Barbour grease… Extremely well composed. Mouth: assertive and a little rougher than on the nose, maybe a tad less ‘forthright’. Rather oily mouth feel. The sherry is a little more obvious too (redcurrants, cassis buds)… Bubblegum, liquorice allsorts, raspberry jam… Also oranges, and once again a rather obvious smokiness. Hints of chilli (spicy pizza sauce). A tad roguish, pleasantly so. Finish: long and in the keeping with the palate. Notes of bitter tea but also strawberry sweets and a hotness. Comments: a magnificent nose, rather old skool, and a full-bodied palate that’s more than just very good. The spirit talks.

SGP:653 - 90 points.

Springbank 11 yo 1997/2009 ‘Madeira Wood’ (55.1%, OB, 9,090 bottles) (4 Stars)

This one was fully matured in Madeira wood, not just finished. Colour: full gold. Nose: this is rougher and wilder than the 18, and not just because of the higher strength. First whiffs of distillation, wash, boiled cereals… Then the very same kind of rather superb smokiness as in the 18 (maybe a tad more towards a garden fire under the rain), and finally a lot of cereally and mashy notes again, not quite porridgy but… Hints of Madeira indeed but it’s anything but winey as such. Old walnuts, cake, malt. With water: impressive, we’re very close to the 18 now! And whiffs of a farmyard after the rain. This one takes water perfectly well! Mouth (neat): hot, rich and very fruity, starting on loads of overripe oranges and notes of violet sweets and just a very faint bitter rubber – nothing unpleasant. Quite some liquorice too, orange liqueur… and more liquorice. With water: once again, it swims like Mark Spitz. Smoked orange liqueur (uh?), Darjeeling, nougat. Finish: long, with some soft spices (cumin?) and notes of orange cake like on the nose. Comments: very good, maybe just a tiny tad more, say sloppy than the 18.

SGP:541 - 87 points.

Glendronach 33 yo (40%, OB, Oloroso Sherry, +/-2008) (4.5 Stars)

Colour: dark amber. Nose: oloroso galore! Huge notes of maraschino cherries, strawberry jam and nougat at first nosing, with more chocolate (ganache) and quince jelly after that. It’s finally beefy/oaky touches (old furniture) that have the last word, as well as a little parsley and sage. Even hints of oregano. Rather rich but maybe not totally explosive. After twenty minutes: it got a little more leathery/rubbery. Mouth: mellow and rounded, less big than both old 12s and, I must say, very, very close to an old Armagnac. Cherry liqueur, prunes, almond milk (or orgeat), chocolate, rancio (a lot) and black tea. The old oak is well there but tamed and just a little ‘cinnamonny’ (excuse me). Finish: medium long and… even more like an old Armagnac. Comments: one to sip in your club, in an old Chesterfield armchair and maybe with a good Habano in hand, while discussing the depress… I mean, recession (and the prices of whisky) with a bunch of broke friends.

SGP:531 – 88 points.

But wait, old Armagnacs… Let’s rummage through our sample library, maybe we’ll find one to try now and see if how it compares with this old Glendronach… one avec panache if possible… ah, yes, why not this…

Laphroaig ‘Triple Wood’ (48%, OB, 1l, 2009) (4 Stars)

This one is the well-known (and very good) ‘Quarter Cask’ that’s been finished in sherry casks. In other words, it’s double-finishing. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s interesting that the rather heavy (okay, elaborate) wood treatment (okay, technology) seems to have pushed Laphroaig’s medicinal side even more to the front, whilst the peat smoke got seemingly more subdued, and certainly less ‘big and obvious’ than in other young bottlings. Indeed, this baby smells much older than it probably is (7-9 years?) and we’ve had 20yos that were more pungent and raw, even at similar strength. To sum up, there’s vanilla, camphor, eucalyptus, antiseptics, tincture of iodine, light white pepper, smoked tea, wet hay, a little butter and dairy cream, roots, wet earth and then more vanilla – even if this is anything but a vanilla bomb. In short, very nice. Mouth: thick mouth feel, starts unusually sweet for a Laphroaig and very liquoricy, which may not please all Laphroaig lovers in our opinion. Much more vanilla than on the nose and something that shouts ‘new world chardonnay’ (whatever that means). Buttered toffee, cardamom, orange liqueur (peated Cointreau!) Finish: rather long, a tad closer to an ‘average’ Laphroaig but leaving kind of a greasy sweetness on your palate. Comments: very, very good but very modern and ‘engineered’, especially on the palate that is kind of liqueurish. A Laphroaig liqueur? We like the regular Quarter Cask a little better and our good old 10yo CS much better.

SGP:547 - 86 points. (and thank you Christophe)

Lagavulin 1991/2007 'Distillers Edition' (43%, OB, lgv 4/495) (5 Stars)

The Lagavulin DE has always been a very embarrassing whisky to me, especially the 1979 and other early versions (but not the 1984) because it’s exactly the kind of bottling I should not like: a wonderful malt whisky ‘quickly finished’ in unlikely so-called wine casks to offer… what? Range-widening? Alas, I always found these DEs to be wonderful whiskies. Sugar, how disappointing! Colour: gold/amber. Nose: totally superb! An amazing rubber boots/bitter oranges combo, evolving towards more coastal elements (dried kelp, brine), old leather, camphor, tobacco and orange marmalade, then beef stock, pu-erh tea and soot. Disappointingly brilliant ;-). Mouth: I think it’s not possible that this whisky hasn’t a higher ABV than just 43%. Starts extremely ashy and amazingly kippery and salty, with a lot of tobacco (chewed Habano), gentian spirit, dried ginger and salted liquorice. Develops on the same beautiful aromas and keeps bombarding us with the same ultra-huge ashy smokiness. Finish: it’s long (maybe not the longest, but still) and still very kippery, with some caramel coming through now. Caramelised kippers? Comments: the first time I tried this one it was blind and I went for 92 points, but that’s obviously much too high for a finished whisky. Let’s mark it down!

SGP:448 - 91 points. Yes, that’s still disappointingly high, so let’s try to take revenge with an oldie…

Littlemill 1990/2007 (57%, Scott's Selection) (4 Stars)

Colour: white wine. Nose: we’re close to the 1983, only more powerful and hence a tad raw and spirity. Hints of rose scented candles. With water: a load of very ‘natural’ and pleasantly immature aromas (pleasant because they’re very ‘natural’ and close to the raw materials, grain and yeast). Porridge sprinkled with lemon juice, beer and the same kind of smokiness as in the 1983. Mouth (neat): a very big, very grassy attack, all on apple peel and pepper once again, getting then a little fruitier (crystallised lemons and oranges). With water: now it gets really very good. More lemons, apples and cinnamon, with quite some cloves and ginger as well. Finish: long, quite bitter although not as much so as the 1983. Pepper and lemon. Comments: another old-style malt that’s very good in our opinion and that contradicts all the people who claim that Littlemill used to be a cheapo malt whisky. A blast from the past, as they say. SGP:362 – 86 points.

Glenrothes 17 yo 1990/2008 (59.9%, The Clydesdale, Sherry cask #0221/11001, 542 bottles) (4 Stars)

We usually sort the whiskies by increasing ABV but when some are much older than others, we prefer to put them at the end. But then we have to be careful with the high strength ones, Eugene. Colour: amber/orangey. Nose: hot and maybe a tad lactic and buttery, but otherwise pleasantly candied and fruity (dried bananas and pears). Kirsch. With water: as often, it gets much wilder and that doesn’t diminish. Leather (horse saddle), wet hay, Virginia tobacco (amazingly huge notes), hawthorn tea, cherry liqueur, overripe oranges, wood smoke… Quite superb and completely different with water. Also more spices (ginger, garam masala). Mouth (neat): extremely powerful, both candied and rubbery, tasting somewhat like fruit spirit newmake. Yes, kirsch. With water: once again, water worked, even if a little less so than on the nose. Sweeter, richer, fruitier, all on orange marmalade and spices. Yes, garam masala again. Slight over-woodiness. Finish: long, grassier now, on various herbal teas and liquorice. Comments: as good a swimmer as Michael Phelps or Alain Bernard. SGP:361 - 86 points.

Old Pulteney 21 yo (46%, OB, Bottled +/- 2008) (4 Stars)

There has been a vintage version of the 21yo, a 1983 that was very good (86). This version bears no vintage. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a completely different league, as if four more years made all the difference. Just as coastal as the 17 but also much more complex, even if the general profile is more or less the same. Oatcakes, muesli, natural apple juice, pear peel, iodine, butterscotch, liquorice wood, hints of verbena herbal tea. Ends up with nice whiffs of freshly cut pineapple and rhubarb mixed with candle wax and ginger beer. And a minty oakiness. Mouth: excellent attack and body, sweet and round but truly ‘old Highland’. Salty and gingery, slightly ‘wild’ in that sense, with quite some waxy and resinous notes. Peppered oysters. Finish: long, even saltier and more phenolic. Pleasant ‘metallic’ notes. Comments: great whisky, instantly recognisable (well, we did at the MM Awards when we tried it blind, but nothing to brag about, it’s very easy).

SGP:453 - 87 points.

Rosebank 17 yo 1991/2008 (56.3%, The Clydesdale, 324 bottles) (4 Stars)

Colour: white wine. Nose: much more expressive, even when reduced. Starts all on lemon pie and vanilla crème, then oranges, then something slightly dusty (flour, old papers) and finally something like gingered milk (should that exist somewhere on this planet.) The development is a little less appealing than the attack but it’s still a pleasant Rosebank. Mouth: a classic very lemony Rosebank here. Lemon in all its forms. With water (while the nose didn’t change much): pure lemon pie with a little aniseed and hints of carvi. Finish: Comments: clean, typical, good. Very ‘young Rosebank’.

SGP:530 – 85 points.


Bruichladdich 16 yo ‘First Growth – Cuvée E’ (46%, OB, ACEd in Château d’Yquem, Sauternes, 2008) (4 Stars)

Right, we should have tried the Cuvée E before the Cuvée F but as Lafleur is a red and Yquem a sweet white, we thought it would be better to have the usually exuberant Sauternes last. Yquem: roughly 80% sémillon, 20% sauvignon. Aged for 3 years+ in 100% new French oak. Colour: gold.

Nose: we’re not far from the 15yo from the core range this time, with more apricots, Mirabelle plums and bananas. Maybe a little ‘easier’ than the ‘reds’. Mouth: rich, candied, balanced, with a full basket of bananas, pineapples, chamomile and soft spices (even if the oak is rather big again). Finish: long, with more oak and more pepper. Comments: my favourite.

SGP:561 - 85 points.


The Peat Monster Reserve Edition (48.9%, Compass Box, 1.5l, 2008) (4 Stars)

A magnum, hurray! Colour: white wine. Nose: WOW! This is extremely unusual and I like it. Starts on very huge notes of smoked fish and smoked ham as well and goes on with even bigger notes of ham, and then even bigger notes of smoked salmon. It’s only after a few minutes that more ‘mundane’ notes of plain smoke, apple peels and fresh mint manage to come through. Extremely demonstrative whisky. Mouth: right, it does not taste like smoked salmon ;-), rather like a very good ‘average’ Islayer. Peat, pepper, liquorice, a little vanilla fudge, grapefruits and hints of cloves. Very classic on the palate. Finish: long, peaty, peppery, very clean and very straight. Comments: two whiskies in one here (which should make 3 litres!) What a spectacular nose! SGP:357 – 85 points.

Springbank 10 yo (46%, OB, 2008) (4 Stars)

The new style labelling conquered the 10yo too. Previous batches of the 10yo scored 83-84 points in my book. Colour: straw. Nose: beautifully clean yet complex at first nosing, extremely pure, with notes of fresh butter, flowers from the fields (our beloved dandelions), beeswax and other waxes (no paraffin that is) and then straighter fruity notes (strawberries and quite some tangerines), with also a little peat smoke. It’s very natural and maybe a tad old-style (make that traditional), which is an asset in our opinion. Absolutely no obvious wood treatment. Mouth: very good ‘nervousness’, sweet, fruity (the notes of coconuts are back!), getting even fruitier over time (strawberry syrup, marshmallows). Also these very peculiar notes of overripe oranges and leather that are only to be found in Springbank or Longrow, rather discrete here. Good whisky. Finish: medium long, with a little salt and hints of olive oil that add to its complexity. Oak, Turkish delights and oranges. Comments: once more, this is proof that Springbank really improved the quality of its whiskies in recent years.

SGP:542 – 86 points.

Bruichladdich 2001/2008 ‘Resurrection’ (46%, OB, bourbon, 24,000 bottles) (4 Stars)

From the first runs of Bruichladdich by the new owners, using malt that was peated to 10ppm before they went back to very little peat after that. It seems that there were also batches at other peat levels (we’ve also seen 5 or 8). The bottle itself is very, say ‘noticeable’ and the name of 'Resurrection' rings a bell (Renaissance, anyone? Who will launch a Rebirth? ;-)) Colour: pale gold. Nose: what strikes first is the peat, quite unexpectedly. It’s as if Bruichladdich’s trademark freshness and cleanliness worked as an amplifier for the tiniest ‘ppms’. The peat calms down after a while, that is, leaving room for quite some iodine and even medicinal hints (unexpected again), as well as notes of fresh mint and aniseed. It’s also quite farmy in the background (farmyard, hay, wet wool). Very little sweetness and fruitiness here and in that sense it’s extremely different from older ‘natural’ versions that always had a little apple/pear/peach/melon/you name it. After ten minutes: a lot of smoke and elements from the sea (make that sea air). Mouth: once again, this is very surprising, much peatier than expected. Very ‘maritime’ again (oysters!) and rather herbal and spicy (mint, green tea, ginger, white pepper.) Quite ashy/smoky as well. Hints of bitter fruits developing (cider apples) as well as chlorophyll but the peatiness is still unexpectedly huge. Finish: long, smoky and vegetal (Japanese green tea). Comments: a huge surprise. This has strictly nothing to do with the older 10 or 15yo, whether recent or formerly bottled by Invergordon or earlier owners. It has to be ranked among the peated Islayers – not the monsters of course -, even if it does also have something of Scotland’s northeastern coast. By the way, we like it a lot.

SGP:255 - 87 points.

Port Charlotte 2001/2008 ‘PC7’ (61%, OB, American oak, 24,000 bottles) (4.5 Stars)

PC5 was youthful and fruity (86) and PC6 was bigger and fuller but also just a tad winey on the nose as it spent some time in Madeira casks (88). Greatest of news, PC7 is ‘more traditionnal’, that is to say partly bourbon and partly sherry matured (thanks Arild). Colour: gold. Nose: much more spirity than the Laddie of course, thanks to the very high alcohol. We do get coffee (as often in high-strength whiskies), pears and smoke but that’s pretty all. Nothing unusual, let’s add water… With water: now we’re talking! Extremely organic, all estery notes having vanished, with a big smokiness and big both farmy and coastal notes (from wet dogs to clams – excuse us dogs and clams). Also quite some freshly ground black pepper, walnuts and just hints of car dashboard polish. Mouth (neat): strong, very strong. Fructose, salt and apple peeling but that’s all. With water: the peat and the smokiness are very big now, almost a bit acrid. The whole is much less fruity than PC5 and 6 but also better integrated, with also more salt and just hints of butter pears. Finish: very long, peaty, liquoricy and a tad gingery. Comments: it is extremely clean and rather fat at the same time. It’s probably a little less exuberant than PC6 but also ‘sleeker’ in a certain way. Which we appreciate mucho!

SGP:247 - 89 points.

‘Intermediate bonus’ - another PC for good measure: Port Charlotte 6 yo 2002/2008 (57.6%, Streah, cask #85, 281 bottles) (4 Stars)

Streah is a new small indie bottler. It seems that they have only bottled this PC so far. Colour: straw. Nose: this one is easier to nose when undiluted. It’s a tad less smoky as well as fruitier than the PC7, with more ‘direct’ coastal notes (seaweed). More notes of tincture of iodine and vanilla as well. With water: the difference is exactly the same. More fruits (pears, apples, gooseberries) and more ‘fresh’ notes (kelp, grass, fresh walnuts.) Less smoke. Mouth (neat): extremely close to the PC7, almost as strong, with a bigger smokiness this time. With water: we’re extremely close to the PC7 again. Maybe just a tad fruitier again, and maybe also a tad more peppery and less ‘fat’. Finish: long, clean, really half-peaty half-fruity (green apples), with a very peppery aftertaste. Comments: one year younger than the PC7 and one can feel that from the added fruitiness. But it’s great whisky anyway.

SGP:347 - 87 points. (and thank you, Tomislav)

Ballechin #3 (46%, OB, matured in Port hogsheads, 2008) (4 Stars)

Matured solely in Port hogsheads. After the Edradour ‘Port’, it’s interesting to try this peaty version that’s been matured in roughly similar casks. Remember Ballechin #1 was matured in Burgundy and #2 in Madeira. Colour: pale gold. Port hogsheads, that is to say casks made in Scotland out of ex-Port wood, are obviously much less ‘winey’ than plain Port casks. Nose: superb! Seriously, this is great, very different from most other peated whiskies but probably ‘closer to Islay’ than batches #2 and 3. There’s some iodine (yeah we know where Pitlochry is), hints of bandages, then marzipan, quite some nutmeg, ginger powder, fresh walnuts, light peat smoke and, I must say, these notes of rosemary that we already found in older Edradours, except that they’re much, much more pleasant here. Very discreet hints of cow stable. Superb nose, really. Mouth: excellent, perfect alliance of the peat and the candied side from the cask. Farmy, albeit less so than earlier batches, more polished, with a fruitiness that’s more on ripe apricots and plums, lemon balm sweets (say Ricola) and kumquats. Not extravagantly complex yet but the peat/fruits balance is perfect. Finish: long, with the peat coming more to the front, which gives it an Islay side just like at first nosing. Great notes of almond milk and even quite some salt. Comments: Ballechin should not be overlooked. We had batch #1 at 85 and #2 at 86, and this deserves 87. Yes, French logics. We don’t know what will be on next year, maybe Sauternes? As long as it works… SGP:536 - 87 points.

Glenrothes 1978/2008 (43%, OB, 5,600 bottles) (4 Stars)

An earlier bottling, done in 1999, was a bit weak and tea-ish in our book. Let’s see if this is bolder… Colour: gold. Nose: it is. Very honeyed (heather) and very nutty as often with Glenrothes, with also a lot of beeswax as well as notes of vanilla, mint and liquorice (drops). Starts to smell like an excellent mulled wine after a moment, with notes of cloves, Chinese anise, cinnamon and hints of prunes and chocolate. A complex yet very coherent and compact Glenrothes that may remind us of a 30yo HP on the nose in a certain way. Mouth: starts almost thick, rounded, very jammy and honeyed (‘dry’ honey), with again a lot of spices such as cloves, carvi and badian. It’s also rather chocolaty, with notes of Armagnac-soaked prunes. Maybe a tad dry in the end of the middle. Finish: long and firm but maybe a tad too dry and tannic now (overinfused tea) despite the very pleasant notes of eucalyptus drops. Comments: very good Glenrothes, probably not as majestic as the 1980 C/S or as the best ones by Duncan Taylor but still very pleasant. Too bad the price is so heavy (+/- 380 Euros).

SGP:542 – 87 points.

Port Ellen 29 yo 1978/2008 8th Annual Release (55.3%, OB, 6,618 bottles) (4 Stars)

Already the eighth release! My! Feeling old over here… Colour: pale gold. Nose: this one isn’t extremely expressive either at first sniffing but there’s still more peat and more maritime notes than in the 1982. It’s also a bit yoghurty, lemony, ‘walnutty’… With water: more walnuts, more apple peelings, whiffs of cold ashes and used matches. Just like in the 1982, more mint as well. Mouth (neat): powerful, very peaty but also kind of candied, maybe tasting a tad younger than it actually is. Dried pears, quince jelly, hints of marshmallows… Then quite some mint, verbena and liquorice. Gets better after a moment, it’s the attack that’s maybe a tad less impressive than in earlier batches. With water: gets grassier, maybe a tad bitter and even slightly tannic. Finish: long, grassy, on apple peelings. Quite some pepper as well. Comments: very good but maybe not the best official Port Ellen in our opinion, we feel it somewhat lacks the notes of fresh tarmac and the zing that were so typical. Or, gran horror, are the best PE’s gone for good? We may get the answer to this existential question in September 2009…

SGP:337 – 87 points (still!)

Lagavulin 12 yo 1995 (48%, OB, European oak casks, for Friends of Classic Malts, 2008) (4.5 Stars)

Colour: gold – orange. Nose: a punchy Lagavulin, starting very farmy and less sherried than we had thought. It’s rather on incense, cigar box and leather polish, with whiffs of cow stable and even horse sweat. Develops more on soft spices, ‘red Thai sauce’, curry and cumin, getting back to more Ileach notes after a while, such as peat smoke, dried kelp and seashells. Also notes of bitter oranges and cinchona. Very big notes of dry sherry come though after a good ten minutes. Mouth: sweet and rounded yet rather nervous, maybe less complex than on the nose at first sipping. Peated orange marmalade (should that exist – you say it does!), smoked tea, toffee, coffee-flavoured fudge, prunes and Corinth raisins. Finish: medium long, candied and smoky at the same time. Hints of dried mushrooms and caramel. Comments: actually, we’re not extremely far from the regular 16 yo, but this one is a tad thicker and slightly sweeter. It’s very good whisky, even if one may prefer either the sharper Lagavulins, or the (even) heavier ones, such as the recent 21yo.

SGP:536 – 88 points.

Brora 25 yo (56.3%, OB, 3,000 bottles, 2008) (5 Stars)

Exit our beloved 30yo, here comes the new 25yo! Colour: pale gold. Nose: this is more delicate than the 1983, which suggests an earlier vintage(s). The smoke is sort of shier but also more elegant, the whole being more complex for sure. At random we get notes of fresh bitter almonds (quite a lot), white wine (Sauvignon), wet leaves and mushrooms (a walk through the trees, really), cloves and ginger, smoked tea (lapsang souchong)… Gets then a little fruitier (ripe apples and pears), grassier and even a tad mustardy. With water: gets a bit farmier (wet hay) and maritime as well (drying kelp on the beach), with also hints of fresh mint. Mouth (neat): starts unexpectedly fruity (granny smith) but it’s soon to get rather smokier, with big notes of fresh walnuts and crystallised lemon zests together with hints of liquorice, horseradish and green pepper. Gets then grassier and “pleasantly acrid”, if you see what I mean. With water: it’s here that it gets closer to the 30yo’s, with the kind of ‘majestic austerity’ that we like so much in most Broras. It is to be wondered if they didn’t sort of ‘dope’ this one with one or two casks of older spirit. Just a wild guess! Finish: long, grassy, smokier now, with these very idiosyncratic notes of mustard and salt in the aftertaste. Comments: we had feared that the new 25 would not hold a candle to the 30; we were wrong. But please give it time and, most importantly, don’t forget to add a few drops of water to it to unleash its full ‘Broraness’.

SGP:265 - 90 points.

Bowmore 43 yo 1964 'White Bowmore' (42.8%, OB, 732 bottles, 2008) (5 Stars)

After the legendary ‘Blacks’, here’s the new ‘White’, assembled from six bourbon casks (retails for 3,300 Euros a bottle). Colour: gold, not white (but white wine isn’t white either, is it?) Nose: amazing, in seven letters. Fantabulous notes of tropical fruits (where to start? Mangos, grapefruits, passion fruits, kiwis, god knows what else…) mingling with a very ‘Indian’ blend of spices. Cardamom, caraway, ground ginger, nutmeg, green curry… Stunning, really. There’s also these very maritime notes (kelp, iodine, wet beach) and these floral ones (lilies and peonies, beautifully heady here.) An amazing whisky – no, rather a perfume from the very best makers’. Mouth: frankly, I had thought it would all happen on the nose, but it’s not the case at all. Superb attack all on passion fruits (my mum would say “buy passion fruits, it’s cheaper”) and then mastic-flavoured Turkish delights, a little roasted argan oil, lemon pie, all kinds of soft spices, high-end lemon squash and, as expected, notes of oak, with a very pleasant and subtle bitterness as a signature. And there’s well a little peat lingering somewhere… Finish: probably not extremely bold but amazingly clean and straightforward for a short while, getting then very subtle and complex again. Whispers, but whispers for a very, very long time... … … Comments: is this an “anti Black Bowmore”? Probably, as it’s very subtle, complex and maybe sometimes a tad ‘diaphanous’ but always very wonderful. And what a nose! The epitome of elegance as far as whisky is concerned. I’d even dare to write that it’s (almost) worth its heavy price tag.

SGP:644 - 95 points.

Dalmore 17 yo 1990/2007 (59.7%, Adelphi, cask #7327, 590 bottles) (4 Stars)

Colour: gold. Nose: almost as ashy as the 40% at first nosing but gets then much more vegetal, waxy and grassy, a little rough in fact. Pungent. Let’s add water straight away… With water: ah yes, water makes wonders here. A little wood smoke, then fresh orange juice, hints of chicken bouillon, ham… Gets meatier and meatier, in a beautiful way. Even notes of parsley. Unusually and nice. Mouth (neat): hot and spirity, but what’s in the background should be nice. Huge notes of ‘new kirsch’. With water: barley sugar, orange marmalade, ginger and strawberry pie. Very good, even if there aren’t any beefy notes anymore here. Too bad (not that we love beef, but these kinds of notes can be quite spectacular in some whiskies). Finish: rather long, a tad simpler but with an excellent smokiness. Comments: a dram that needs water. Extremely interesting on the nose.

SGP:462 – 86 points.

Bruichladdich 1998/2008 ‘Manzanilla’ (46%, OB, 6,000 bottles) (4 Stars)

It’s to be noted that Bruichladdich worked only for a few weeks in 1998, and had been silent for a few years before and then until 2001 again.Colour: gold. Nose: this is very, very winey at first nosing but it’s in no way an ‘added’ vinosity. Everything is very coherent in there, the notes of bitter oranges and very ripe melons quickly leaving room for drier aromas such as apple peelings, walnut liqueur, almond milk, marzipan and café latte. Gets fresher and fresher after that, sort of purer and cleaner, mostly on apple juice. Also hints of stout and just a very faint rubber (inner tube, not unpleasant at all) as well as touches of herbal tea (maybe rosehip.) Not exactly a sherry monster on the nose, the spirit and Manzanilla work very well together I think. Mouth: this is even sweeter than on the nose – so much for dry sherry. A lot of orange marmalade, plum jam and crème brûlée with notes of walnuts again and something pleasantly ‘nervous’ and slightly prickly (icing sugar) playing with your tongue. Finish: medium long, clean, a little maltier and toastier. Hints of peat. Comments: very, very good. Let’s hope they’ve still got some casks from these 1998 distillations.

SGP:632 – 87 points.

Bruichladdich 1998/2008 ‘Oloroso’ (46%, OB, 6,000 bottles) (4 Stars)

Colour: gold/amber with salmony hues. Nose: what’s rather surprising is that whilst manzanilla is drier than oloroso, this whisky is a little drier than its sibling on the nose. We’re closer to a classic Bruichladdich, with the whiffs of melons, apricots and even gooseberries flying around, and then more typical notes of oloroso, such as chocolate, praline and raisins. Finally more grassy notes (walnut skin, apple peeling.) Almost no vinosity at all this time. Mouth: this is a whisky we’d call ‘gourmand’ in French – sorry, never found a similar term in English. Much richer and sweeter than on the nose, and hence sweeter and richer than the manzanilla version, with also a more obvious peatiness here and quite some spices (quite some pepper). Other than that it’s all on chocolate, sultanas and various fruit liqueurs, including orange and maybe date arrack. Finish: long, still sweeter than the manzanilla, with even a few bubblegummy notes but no icing sugar (or fructose). Comments: it’s not bold and thick first fill oloroso, which can be seen in the colour. Maybe a tad youngish again but already very, verypleasant. Also, we’re maybe closer in style to a good sherry finishing that worked well. Let’s say I liked the manzanilla just a tad better, mainly because it’s more unusual.

SGP:633 – 86 points.


Tamdhu 1973/2008 (56%, Gordon & MacPhail, Reserve, cask #3230, 481 bottles) (5 Stars)

Colour: amber. Nose: wonderful at first nosing! High-end coffee/schnapps, raspberry ganache, gianduja and top-notch porridge (well, as far as porridge can be top-notch.) Something very pleasantly acid (slightly), balsamico from Modena (not the rot-tastic stuff one can find in most supermarkets), redcurrant jam, wet wood, chocolate… Very interesting nose. More red fruits and a little smoke come through after a few minutes. Not easy-easy and maybe a tad cerebral, but truly wonderful.
With water: it got immensely organic, with wet hay, ‘clean’ manure, mushrooms and green tea. Hints of asparagus. Quite beautiful if not very ‘classic’. Mouth (neat): a rather sumptuous sherry and truckloads of spices. Various peppers, a lot of cloves, gingerbread, red fruits (jams)… A bit too heavy and concentrated at full strength, though, so let’s try it with water again: right, it didn’t change a lot and just got a little easier to drink. But spices ahoy! Finish: long, all on spices and fruit jam. One to keep for Christmas eve? Comments: a big, wonderful Tamdhu, not easy at all but rather enthralling.

SGP:653 – 91 points.

Mortlach 1990/2007 (56%, Scott's Selection) (4 Stars)

Colour: straw. Nose: this is quite different, even if there seems to be traces of sherry. Huge notes of vanilla crème, vanilla cake and dried bananas, with the faintest meatiness this time (BBQ). With water: oh, it’s like if it had lost ten years now. Much ‘simply’ fruitier and mashier, with quite some porridge, mashed potatoes and plain pears, with just faint whiffs of smoke. Maybe hints of sulphur. Mouth (neat): quite some peat here, or rather what tastes like peat. Smoked tea (lapsang souchong), pine resin, smoked meat, pemmican, Grisons meat (Swiss dried beef – that’s excellent), bananas dipped into porridge… Much less ‘balanced’ and ‘good’ than the Ultimate at this stage, but maybe a little more interesting. With water: added notes of both crystallised and fresh grapefruit but no meatiness left. Finish: long, cleaner, maybe a tad simpler (citrus). Comments: funny behaviour with water here. Water completely changes this Mortlach’s profile. It remains good, but very different. Two malts in one?

SGP:343 – 85 points.

Ardbeg 1998/2008 ‘Renaissance’ (55.9%, OB) (4 Stars)

(yeah, sorry, we’re late…) For the first time some ‘new’ Ardbeg has been officially bottled at 10yo, as contrarily to what some do believe, the 10yo ‘Mor’ was made out of pre-takeover distillate. Colour: white wine. Nose: very clean and pure, much more estery and fruity than expected at first nosing. Unexpected notes of plum eau-de-vie, newly cut apples (granny smith), then just a little porridge, phosphorus, a slight fizziness (lemonade), hints of orange squash, coal smoke and gentian. Much less peaty, phenolic and smoky than expected (anticipated?) and much gentler. Mouth: an attack on pure gentian eau-de-vie with a teaspoon of sugar into it. Very different from the ‘older’ Ardbegs, with also notes of herb liqueurs and sweet ginger. Develops mainly on fruits (pineapples, even ripe kiwis) and gets then even gingerier. Quite some peat for sure but maybe not the usual ‘untameable’ one. Finish: medium long, ultra-clean, on gentian, ginger and pepper. Comments: I think this is an easier, simpler and gentler dram than the Ten that we all know well, even at cask strength. As if their will was to make it kind of more ‘approachable’ to the general public. But it’s still a lovely dram, no doubt about that.

SGP:436 - 86 points.

Lagavulin 12 yo Special Release (57.8%, OB, 2002) (4 Stars)

This was the second release. Colour: straw. Nose: starts on striking coffee notes (even coffee liqueur) that slowly transform into ‘mineral and fruity’ peat. Wet chalk, wet hay, garden bonfire, mint and apple peelings (loads). With water: a tad more on ‘smoky porridge’. Mouth (neat): punchy but less sharp than the Moon, certainly sweeter but not less peaty. Heavy peat mixed with fruit drops and faint hints of bubblegum. Very good but I always liked the regular 16yo a little better – it’s sort of more aristocratic and more complex. With water: fully balanced now. A lot of peat and more spices (pepper) and much less fruity/bubblegummy notes. Did they came solely from the alcohol? Finish: long, peaty, peppery and almondy. Comments: quite a peat monster in fact. Not very complex but very pleasantly punchy, amazing how water killed the (slightly excessive) sweetness.

SGP:537 – 86 points.

Lagavulin 12 yo Special Release (58.2%, OB, 2004) (4 Stars)

Fourth release. Colour: white wine. Nose: this one starts more on almonds than on coffee but gets then closer to the earlier batch. A tad less on wet hay, a little more on apple peelings and fresh walnuts. With water: frankly different now. More herbal notes (parsley, lovage). Mouth (neat): more or less the same as the ‘2002’ at this point. Rather huge sweetness but always a big peatiness. Fructose. With water: once again, water sort of kills the fruitiness but the end result is still a little more ‘balanced’ than in the 2nd release. Finish: long, curiously a little more ‘Ardbeg’ at this point. Comments: I think this one was a little better than previous batches. A little more complex, but big peat rules. Peat freaks must love this.